JANUARY 9, 2022
DECEMBER 28, 2021
To all those who take an interest in YMYX, we have gone a long time without a post, and many have requested some news. As a result, I write today to update on YMYX ‘s current status now as we near the close of 2021, and in anticipation of 2022 to come.
Our partner brands are rendering their collections in 2D or 3D visuals, and YMYX is investing in conducting market research across major cities in China and even the rest of the Asia Pacific region, in order to gauge the consumers’ response, and give our partner designers precious feedback from the market on how to further improve their designs.
In this market research process, there are a sizable number of designers who have achieved a very promising success; some of them I share below, in alphabetical order: (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed) and (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), (Name removed), amongst many others; but due to space limitations, I am not listing each and every name out here.
Now, they are deep in the process of refining, improving and adjusting their proposals, in order to capture an even more fervent response from the market.
Even though these brands have achieved an initial enthusiastic acknowledgement from consumers, they are still using a very professional and dedicated attitude, and continue to increase in their scale, add more models and variants to their collections, and improve.
At the same time, in this ongoing period of market research over the last year, some brands did not have an initially favorable result, but after much mutual cooperation, these brands too, have completely flipped the response of the consumers, and achieved a first success as well.
Thinking back, 3 years ago, when YMYX raised the idea of using 3D or 2D visuals to conduct market research, it was not yet a mainstream method, and wasn’t something that many designers accepted, or knew how to do.
As a result, nearly all of our partner designers objected to this request, and expressed their incomprehension.
Yet now, this move into the virtual is now firmly planted in the fashion industry’s future roadmap. Even Louis Vuiton has created a virtual game with 30 NFTs, and Zara too, launched their first wholly virtual collection for the metaverse, last month.
A lot of designers now have written to us to express their gratitude, and they are frank in saying that the direction that we had pointed to nearly 3 years ago, was the correct path.
Some designers now have already completely changed the way that they work, and have adopted these new methods toward their European clients as well.
Due to limited space, I attach just 2 messages from partner designers, with names and information redacted, expressing this kind of sentiment:
Mon, Dec 6, 9:13 PM
[Name Redacted] to Kate Chang <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Something interesting for you
How are you?
I read this article today in a Galician newspaper and I found it very interesting so I wanted to share the link with you:
Zara crea su primera colección para vestir a personas y avatares virtuales - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/noticia/sociedad/2021/12/06/zara-crea-primera-coleccion-vestir-personas-avatares-virtuales/00031638798779134685542.htm
Virtual design is starting to take position at the fashion world. We are already moving to new ways of showcasing and commercialize our fashion through online marketplaces, offering a new shopping experience to the clients. We are going in the right direction.
Thu, Nov 4, 2021 at 10:30 PM
[Name Redacted] to Kate Chang <email@example.com>
Subject: Market Research
Finally, we are sending our sketches, we took a bit of time to number it, we got.482 sketches and 646 pieces of clothing.
We are really looking forward to positive feedback from the consumers because we really took a lot of attention to this stage!
(Name Redacted) is very happy to have mastered Procreate rendering, we don't even understand why we didn't use this way of drawing before, so thank you very much Kate for that recommendation!
She is absolutely in Love with that program.
you can download sketches here: (link not shown)
(Name Redacted) and (Name Redacted)
We hope that all of the hundreds of brands who are partnered with us can achieve success in China and the Far East region, because this is the mutual goal that we are pursuing.
Nearly each designer firmly convinced us when we met in Milan and then upon signing our contract that as long as they had financial investment to support them, they could create a high quality and bonafide brand that consumers would love.
But it is also regrettable, that a portion of these designers, their designs simply have not been able to conquer the Chinese consumers.
We hope that those designers who have failed, will not become frustrated and will work even harder, full of enthusiasm to create designs that the consumers will love, no matter if those consumers are in China and the Far East, or in Europe.
Now that chance is upon each and every one of our partners, even though COVID-19 caused us delay, YMYX has not stopped our work, together with each partner designer, we have made good use of this difficult period, and these 2 years gave us even more time to make very thorough and exhaustive preparations.
At the same time, we are currently in the process of testing factories to see if they have the ability to produce high quality products, such that they can be admitted to join the YMYX project.
At present, there are more than 100 factories we are testing with. To name a few, there are GDA Group, Aurora SAS, Arastyle of Italy, El Trote Piel, NAULOVER of Spain, and LBT, and SJ Texteis of Portugal; there is no space to list them all out here, but each week, nearly a dozen more are joining as well.
YMYX requests that each factory can provide at the very least, very high quality and competitive price, and can swiftly respond and react, and expand their capacity. Some factories regrettably have been eliminated in the course of this test process.
But those with ambition, even though they are not big now, they have made a plan, for when YMYX orders will begin, then they will very quickly increase their factory's production capability, and unite the other factories in their zone, to build a consortium to meet the vast demand of the China and Far East market.
We know very well that no one single factory can complete all of the orders that the market will demand from each brand that tests well.
So for those who have tested very well in the market research, we have prepared 12 to 15 factories, some even 20 or more, and in the future even 30 or 40 factories to test, to see if these factories can match the designers' requests and work very smoothly with them.
In the past decades, Made in China conquered the world with its speed and accessibility and low prices; but now, we firmly believe that it is time for Made in Italy, Made in Spain, Made in Portugal, in other words, Made in Europe, to firmly take back the ground they ceded, and claim its rightful spot.
The reason is because the middle class of the Chinese and Far East market has been increasing at a lightning pace, and it has brought about an equally massive jump in consumption power as a result. Just in China, this middle class with strong consumption power is now surpassing 400 million in population. This eclipses the entire population of the USA alone, and also passes the population of Europe too.
This number, in the next 10 years, is predicted to reach between 600-800 million.
This region's extraordinarily strong growth in population and the increased spending power of the consumers' wallets have caused their demands for their quality of life to be ever on the rise. The finer things and experiences in life they now crave, and are seeking with fervent enthusiasm.
Years ago, YMYX identified this trend, and today, YMYX will provide that Made in Europe, unique experience that these consumers so covet, and we do believe that for Made in Italy, spring will return soon once more.
We have seen this in the results of the market research we have conducted for each of our partner brands, many consumers have expressed they very much love high quality Made in Europe fashion, and they are very willing to buy from the brands that they liked, with a sense of anticipation, and can hardly wait, even if Made in Europe is slightly more expensive.
As a result, YMYX is also gearing up to move, and when the borders in China open and normalize, and travel links as well as logistics and distribution in China starts to detangle, we will be ready to immediately go to market. Although Omicron has brought renewed lockdowns across Asia, Japan is again closed to non-essential travel, and China has just locked down Xi’an wholly, and undergone many more smaller sporadic lockdowns, we see hope in the efficacy of these vaccines and treatments, and in seeing that the Omicron wave has not been as deadly.
Our platform is ready to go, and while to protect business intelligence we have always been unable to make it public, we can share a few images here, with some aspects blocked out for privacy.
In the YMYX platform, each brand has its own virtual store and space, and once a consumer enters that space, we purposefully made it such that upon entry, YMYX’s presence fades to nearly complete zero, and we descend into background noise. The brand’s own universe and story, its own compelling interactive experience, is placed at the forefront, and their position as the main focal point is emphasized.
In other words, this is the brand’s stage, and it emerges full force, immersing the consumer in the brand’s DNA, aesthetics, values and voice. This is where a designer's own thinking, designs, and origin, including their hometown aspects, can be featured and explored by the consumer at leisure.
It is a walk through the designers’ heart, spirit and mind; and the brand’s visuals and content as a manifestation of that artistic expression and lived experience combined.
Not only will we stop there, but we have allocated plenty of space for each partner factory to also give their introduction fully and interactively. These contents will let consumers clearly understand exactly who is producing these high quality products for them with patience, skill and craft, and give them a sense of pride in being able to buy and wear garments, shoes and bags of quality so high, it is impossible to capture in words.
So the consumers will become not only fans of the brand, but the factory as well.
The entire platform will read like an interactive fashion magazine, with depth and nuance, and consumers will be moved and touched to read it.
Any designer working with us, as long as they are able to prove through market research that they are capable of capture the hearts of the Chinese and Far East audience, has the opportunity to consider what kind of position you will appear in, and how you want to show yourself to these some 2.3 billion consumers that inhabit China and the Far East including Southeast Asia (not including India). YMYX's sales strategy is to provide high quality production, irresistibly elegant and beautiful design, at prices that will not pressure or burden the consumer, and in fact will be so enticing that they simply cannot refuse. And with this winning combination, we will go to market at incredibly fast speed, to satisfy consumers' desires and quickly turn them into fans of the brands they buy from. In deploying this strategy, YMYX estimates more than hundreds of millions of consumers will visit YMYX's online and offline presences.
This will bring the brand a huge and unimaginable influence, that will impact not just China and the Far East region, but extend even to the rest of the world.
The results of the market research have proven that this reality will very soon come to pass.
From our side, we’ll provide Chinese, Japanese, Korean and other language versions of our digital platforms, such that each designer can communicate with their consumers and fans, of course, with YMYX mediating and managing that experience as needed.
As a brand with talent, through this platform, you can offer these consumers a beautiful and lavish feast for their senses, and dazzle them with design point of view shared through various mediums, not just one static image, or one garment, shoe or bag.
We will also be incorporating live streaming as another way to close the gap between consumers and the brands they follow, increasing the stickiness between the brand and consumer.
Factories too, will not remain silent production partners only, but will have their chance to show their story, background, history and craft. Consumers have often felt that nowadays, Made in Italy is actually Made in Italy by Chinese, due to the situation in places like Prato, or elsewhere in the industrial zones in the country. However, in the YMYX project, we are working with factories that pride themselves on the spirit of their craft and tradition, the attention to minute detail and nuance that these factories bring to their work proudly. As mentioned above, the consumers will also know which factory, which craftsman, has made this garment, shoe or bag for them, and this will also increase the stickiness between the consumer and the factory as well.
In these months, we’ve also had many fruitful exchanges with factories in this test process with us who hope to enter the project, and I share a few of these exchanges below, with names and information redacted for their privacy, to better allow you to understand in what way, with what expectations and what standards we aim to operate with each:
An email exchange between an Italian handbag producer:
Thu, Dec 2, 4:37 PM
[Redacted] to Kate Chang <firstname.lastname@example.org>
SUBJECT: LISTINI MODELLI [REDACTED]
Translation in English:
"Good evening Kate,
Sorry for the delay, but I had to intervene in the market for you to find products at better prices. I attach to this the list of products and a letter.
Following your email of 26/11/21 I have carried out a new market research that has made significant changes to the costs that I had previously sent you. In attached I send you "the list [Redacted]" that allows you to have the costs of the articles with the variations. I would like to point out that in the articles 015 and 017 luxury versions, the front pocket is applied and not detached from the dial.
I also want to specify that the quotation that your suppliers have made you 20% lower than mine, is due to the fact that my samples have considerable changes from the photographs you have sent me, as you can see from the samples that you already have in your office.
Regarding the production capacity, with all the materials in stock, we would start with 9000 pieces produced in the first 60 days, we will obtain a monthly production of n. 15000 pieces in the following months. Prices refer to a production of at least 2500-3000 pieces per model.
With the occasion I make you present that the models [Redacted] will have to be made with printed skin, and every article with a different print, making that the costs of production of the samples increase. I would have therefore necessity to know the developments of the production of the articles [Redacted], because I would risk to lose money and energies uselessly because of high costs of sampling.
Hoping for a meeting to be able to confront with you, I am waiting for your answer.
Dec 6, 2021, 2:16 PM
Kate Chang <email@example.com> to [Redacted]
SUBJECT: LISTINI MODELLI [REDACTED]
Thank you for your email.
If you can only begin work on the models of the other two brands in the test until after we have made a detailed price discussion on [Redacted]'s models, then I must tell you very clearly that we must immediately stop our cooperation.
The reason is because if you only make [Redacted]'s models, then you are not able to prove that you will have the ability to produce other models of different variety, from other brands in the YMYX portfolio and work smoothly on all of them simultaneously. We also won't be able to judge if you can make a competitive price, and deliver with speed of execution for those models as well.
Please understand, even if we approved you as a factory for [Redacted]'s brand, we could never give you all of [Redacted]'s orders. The reason is after the COVID-19 outbreak, we came to deeply feel that if one country, or city, went into lockdown, our deliveries would run into huge delays if a factory had to shut down as a result, so it would be crucial for YMYX to divide up the orders amongst many factories, and that is why we changed our policy.
In fact, I trust that you also understand, even brands like YSL or Fendi are not allocating one model's entire production to just your factory alone, because no company would be willing to face this kind of risk.
So when we approve a factory to become a YMYX production partner, this is based again on whether or not that factory has the ability to work smoothly with multiple brands in our portfolio, creating a variety of different kinds of models. This is the basic criteria of our factory selection, and it is also our company's policy.
As a result, only when you have completed the 3 test models for all 3 brands, including [Redacted]'s, will we be able to evaluate the quality, speed of execution and the level of cooperativeness demonstrated, and enter into a detailed discussion with you about the actual production orders including the volumes and timings required, and then move to sign a cooperation contract.
Following that, we would pay for the first production order, and begin production.
This full process is mandatory before we can begin, I hope that you understand.
In order to give you a better understanding of our policy, I will make a further explanation using [Redacted]'s brand as an example. Based on the results of the market research that we carried out for her brand, we have confidence that her brand can be very successful in the Far East region.
For instance Model 017, based on the consumers' feedback and the results of the market research, the first order for this model would be 50,000 units. In the future, based on the market's circumstances, we would likely adjust and place additional re-orders.
Why is it that we have such confidence in placing this big of an initial order, is because as I have explained to you in the past, in China and the Far East region including ASEAN and East Asia, there are more than 100 cities that have a population of over 1 million inhabitants; this of course includes mega-cities that have populations far surpassing 10 million or even 20 million in populations.
If we were to sell just 1 bag per day of Model 017, in each of these 100 cities, in one year, we would be selling 36,000 units.
Yet this scenario, of selling so little as only 1 bag per day, would not be likely at all, based on the consumers' positive feedback in the results of the market research we conducted for [Redacted]'s brand.
So our first production order of 50,000 units is a very conservative one, because if we did not start out with this kind of volume we would not be able to satisfy the market's demand.
Of course, just as I wrote above, this order would be divided between several factories who are matched to [Redacted]'s brand, we would not place the entire volume of the first order for this model only with one factory.
In addition, regarding the samples that you have done for [Redacted]'s brand which we have received, I notify you here that the quality you have demonstrated in these models has been approved by our technical department, and has met our criteria. We very much thank you for your effort and cooperation in the course of completing these models.
Regarding the price, we feel that you still have room to lower costs further, especially considering such a high volume, including the choice of materials. For instance, the pyramid plate accessory, in your costing sheet you have quoted 5.20 EUR per piece, yet several of the hardware suppliers in cooperation with us in Europe can supply this at 2.5 EUR per piece, and if we give them an order of 50,000 units, they could even drop the price lower.
So all of these detailed costings will need to be further discussed for the models completed including those of [Redacted] and [Redacted] comprehensively once the test is complete; at that point we will go deeper on the price breakdowns, order volume and timings, and as I wrote above, we would then enter the contract phase, sign and begin production.
I hope that you understand.
CEO | YMYX
Tue, Dec 7, 3:18 PM
[Redacted] to Kate Chang <firstname.lastname@example.org>
SUBJECT: AGGIORNAMENTO LAVORI
Good evening very kind Kate,
I received your email of 06/12/2021 in which you ask me to complete the collection of [Redacted]: I update you that today I have developed the three models of bench to start the sampling, I bought the materials, I think soon to finish the line and then devote myself to the collection [Redacted].
I started to do a market research to find the gold plate of art. 017 in order to lower the cost, ditto for the plate of art. 015. If you have some names to which to address me, please let me know. Currently I have contacted two Italian companies, one in the center and the other in the south of Italy.
I will inform you in case of updates.
Thu, Dec 9, 2:12 PM (21 hours ago)
Kate Chang <email@example.com> to [Redacted]
SUBJECT: AGGIORNAMENTO LAVORI
Thanks for your email.
I am glad to see that you have already begun to commence with the models from [Redacted] and [Redacted].
I look forward to seeing the final protos for evaluation. Based on the models already submitted, we can feel your quality, and we can see that during the course of production, you have kept quite a high standard.
For [Redacted]'s brand, in the future we will not only produce a luxury version but also the economic version at the same time and offer two options to the consumer, it is a good idea.
Regarding the price, I hope that you understand that the cost price for the YMYX project is really important because it is the price that will give us the ability to give even more benefit to the consumer, and let them feel that this combination of quality and price is truly unbeatable. As a result, your price must be competitive.
Our business model will turn upside down the fashion market's way of doing things in the past.
We use huge amounts of capital and high quality production, together with a price that consumers cannot refuse, to create a massive wave of consumption.
Each factory that works with YMYX should be making their profit based on high quantities, not taking a high margin on a few small quantity orders. We also hope that in the future, as the cooperation with YMYX develops and grows, your confidence too will continue to bolster, and I am sure that at that point, you will naturally want to increase and expand your own capacity, to increase beyond the 15,000 pieces per month that your factory produces today.
A lot of factories tell us that they believe that because of YMYX's strategy, in the future, Italian fashion manufacturers will finally see ¨spring¨ again, and they will restore the scale of their heyday, because consumers will never again believe that to be ¨Made in Italy¨means to be incredibly expensive beyond their reach, or that even though the quality is good, they would never be able to afford it.
In this day and age, the world is changing very quickly, of course, this includes the fashion industry as well.
In fact, 3 years ago, we raised the point of view that design in fashion will be moving to 2D and 3D, and we had each of our partner designers design using 2D and 3D renderings, presenting the vision of each new collection in render to market research with real consumers. Going forward, based on the results of this kind of research, we will be able to react quickly and enter production on those models that test the best.
However, a lot of people didn't understand, including a creative director and consultant at [Name Redacted], and the father of one of our staff, Mr. [Redacted], the owner of the eponymous [Redacted] brand with their flagship in [Located Redacted] in Milano.
Designer brands in the project also told us that this was not possible, that YMYX must not really understand fashion.
But today, we see that Zara, the flagship brand of Inditex, the biggest apparel retailer in the world, has just launched a collection fully virtually, with virtual avatars to display the clothes.
At this moment, a lot of companies have started to believe that this kind of digital age of fashion has arrived finally, and all of this will bring about an even faster speed of production and sales.
I am sharing with you below the link regarding Zara's new collection:
I hope that you can get used to these changes, and use a fast and reactive, and modern management style, to proactively find various ways to create high quality products at reasonable prices, with a very fast speed of delivery, and that you can fully comprehend our wishes."
An email written to an Italian fashion garments producer:
Kate Chang <firstname.lastname@example.org> to [Name Redacted], [Name Redacted]
Thu, Dec 16, 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [NAME REDACTED]'S CALL FOR FABRICS RESEARCH
Hi [Name Redacted],
Thank you for your email and for your confirmation.
Just as I explained before in the email I shared with you, 50,000 units is the minimum for our first production order, for garments, it's even likely that some will be 80,000 units. For the same model, we will likely also add more re-orders throughout the season, because if you recall from our meeting, if we sell just 1 piece per day, for each model that we develop with you, in each of the 100 cities in China with well over 1 million in population, that brings us to 36,000 units per year.
This is a total failure for the brand, and therefore, we consider it a very conservative order volume, to start at 50,000 units for a model already tested, very well liked with high ratings from consumers in the market research. Because it is virtually impossible that the volume would only be so much. We foresee very important volumes beyond this.
Just like I explained, prior to making any orders, and even for this sample test, we conduct extensive rounds of market research with active buyers of luxury brands in China.
Each brand is market tested in this way, across 16 to 20 major cities in China, some with multiple rounds, and for those brands that have not performed as well, we ask them to improve, to refine and elevate the designs, until the market response is much stronger, in a following research round.
Therefore, these brands and models are those which have already been proven through this market research to be very likely highly welcomed by the consumers.
So as long as your quality is good and your price is competitive, you will get the orders because we cannot possibly have 1 factory take everything; there will be a group of qualified partners to take on each model.
We don't want to do a one time deal, where we do one big order then disappear.
The idea is for each model, each collection, we have many factories already matched to the brand, and working together to deliver the overall volumes.
By the way, I am sharing with you a preview of our site (everything is blocked out, all images are black, due to the IP protection), but you can see at the very bottom, the space for the factory's presentation and the name, video, and content.
Your factory will be on the front page of our site, at the bottom of the "manufacturer" section, featured as a partner, and with a lot of space inside to show your story and history, and the process of making the bags.
I hope you understand that this is a very different kind of partnership, and it is truly meant to feature the factory along side the brand and the product, with highest quality and competitive price, to win the consumer, that's also why this quality test is so important, since the factory will get space on the direct front page of our site.
We hope that if you have demonstrated your capability and proved your skill, then once approved and we go forward, you'll become a factory known to the consumer, they trust you and your work, and in the future, they may even request specifically the products made by you, in order to feel safe and secure in their Made in Italy purchase.
CEO | YMYX
[Name Redacted - Factory] to Kate Chang <email@example.com>
Dec 21, 2021, 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: [NAME REDACTED]'S CALL FOR FABRICS RESEARCH
I hope you are doing fine.
Thanks to you.
Unfortuantely, a lot of fabric supplier closing this week until beginning of next year.
I'm pushing a lot to have some fabric swatches before christmas but it's very very difficult .
I'm so excited to be part of YMYX project and, I0m sure will be a succesfull!!!!!!!
Our project is a mutual effort between all three parties - YMYX as the investor, the brand, and the factories - to create and transmit the image of the brand, and the value that we offer to the consumer is comprised inextricably, of these three parts moving in tandem and in great harmony,
From our side, this must include a very clever sales strategy, promotion and planning, and strong financial backing and investment. From the designer’s side, it must include being able to articulate a very unique and high-end design vision and story, that is verified and confirmed through the consumers' responses during market research. And also, from the factory side, it is the ability to execute that design vision, and bring those pieces to life with quality, speed and strong communication.
These three pieces fitting in sync together, will create a perfect fashion “garden”, upon which the consumer can traipse into and happily get lost in, refuse to leave, and become deeply enamoured by.
At the same time very soon we will also enter the virtual world, the metaverse. In China’s incredibly fast growing society, YMYX will definitely not lack in this market, and we will show our great strength and might, in this new arena as well.
We will tie together our ability to stay on the trend, and even guide them, and invest our resources and finances, and placed together with YMYX’s perfect execution of our sales strategy and concrete operations, we will secure the strongest position for each of our partner brands who have received the warm welcome from the consumers.
To better allow each partner designer, factory, or interested party to understand, I am sharing an exchange between one designer and myself, again with names and sensitive information removed for privacy.
From these contents, you can see that as long as the designer has talent, and has proven that talent to be welcome by the consumers, then YMYX has the ability to invest finances, showcase and amplify that talent, no matter if it’s online, virtual or through physical channels. And because of this, just as I wrote above, it will create a wave of impact, and influence not just in the industry in China and the rest the Far East, but even globally as well:
Sat, Dec 18, 4:04 PM
[Name Redacted] to Kate Chang <firstname.lastname@example.org>
SUBJECT: Ref: email exchange with Italian handbag factory
Thank you for your email.
I completely agree with everything you say.
You know me personally, I have confided in you so much and shared with you problems and situations of joy and hope.
This relationship of ours is now based on emails and these can sometimes be read interpreting attitudes that if they had been expressed verbally would be easier to understand thanks to the tone of voice and gaze.
If in the future you will perceive a hostile attitude on my part by reading one of my written messages please do not take it as such because it is not wanted by me.
We in Italy have a way of speaking and doing things that is completely different from the classic Anglo-Saxon way and maybe it can be misinterpreted when translated in English and for this I am sorry and I apologize in advance.
When I write short emails I write them directly, when I write long emails like this one I help myself with an online translator and then I read them again to see if there are any mistakes.
Regarding the problem of sizes, I am now working only with [Name Redacted] with [Name Redacted] and [Name Redacted] of [Name Redacted].
With [Name Redacted], the prototypes have to be cut again because they got the sleeves of the shirt wrong and the dresses have to be completely redone with the right print and with the stylistic and finishing changes I dictated to them.
If you want to, with we are still on time to ask them to make them in a larger size so that both they and I can use the sample also worn on a real model and see if there are any fit problems. A garment may look perfect on a tailor's mannequin or on a crutch but only a real person can tell you if it feels uncomfortable to wear it or if it looks bad when they walk.
With [Name Redacted] we are making two coats and a jacket. The coats are the least risky garments because they have a wide fit and if there is a millimeter defect it becomes invisible. As for the jacket, however, if you agree I'll have it made in size 38.
As for [Name Redacted], the samples are now finished and I'm waiting for the small stylistic details to be made. I had to change a shirt that didn't have a central opening by adding a zipper because it didn't fit and we realized this when a little 11 years old girl wore it for us. If we had done this job only following the size 36 chart we would have sent you a garment that wouldn't have fit anyone.
All the other companies, new or old, have not yet taken over the work so I can agree with them on how they prefer to work best.
Since I have always worked in an industrial environment and not only in a design office, I have seen for years the huge problems with productions, that's why as you want to prevent problems using your experience in your field, I would like to avoid problems using my experience. This is for my sake and yours and for the sake of the project. Many designers have only worked within design offices and have always been protected from what could be production problems etc. these problems are dealt with by other departments.
In every fashion house there is a fitting model. These models do not exist in most of the production companies but only in the design offices of the fashion Houses.
The fitting model is a model who has the perfect size 40 and proportioned and the whole collection is tried on her to avoid errors of proportion and to hear from her voice if the garment she is wearing gives her bad feelings of uncomfortableness, a neck can give feelings of suffocation because it is too tight or an elastic band can give pain if too tight or a sleeve make bad flaws when the girls is walking. Only when this prototype will be perfect will it be possible to develop larger and smaller sizes.
This is not my opinion or my whim but it is the way used by all brands that make high level products. We are presenting ourselves as a high-level brand, but companies that make fast fashion and that base their sizes on a generic L S XL etc. use completely different parameters and systems.
What I am telling you is a service that almost all manufacturing companies do not provide. Their purpose is to produce what we approve. If these companies say they can do this service then they should also provide a real model with the right size 36.
That's why I told you about the need to be able to have a real person wear the clothes but it's not possible to do this on a size 36 model, Italy is considered anorexic and illegal while a normal size 36 person (and not a professional model) will never be a perfect 36 because either the hips or the breasts or vice versa would be bigger with size 38 proportions especially in Latin countries like Italy Spain and Portugal.
Like you, I want to prevent any problem at the root. If a garment that is made and fitted on a seamstress or an employee who works inside the production factory were to be accepted by out costumers and put into production, we would risk making millions of garments with serious fit errors even if perfect from a stylistic or quality point of view.
Once delivered, these garments could be returned to YMYX as defective garments and this would be the real big drama.
Even and above all these details can ruin the reputation of a brand and those who sell it and I feel obliged to warn you about it.
My advice is to avoid very big and irreparable future problems, I'm not asking for favoritism for personal satisfaction or privileges because I feel I am better than others designer.
These are my experiences and every day I hear of companies with collections that, after being produced, are disputed for much, much smaller problems and sent back to the sender.
That's why when I see a photo of a size 36 prototype worn by a size 40 or 42 company employer and I don't have the chance to have it worn by a real flesh and blood model of mine, I foresee in advance potential huge risks for all of us.
Now if you tell me that this is just to test the companies, their skills, their finishing techniques, their prices and their ability to find materials, for me is just fine, but I think that since we are doing a test we should do it at 360 degrees giving them the right tools and sizes to do so.
If, however, you foresee that this could be done at a later date before going into production then this is a different matter and I accept it of course.
Any advice I give you is not intended to override your projects or your ideas, but are the thoughts of a person who, in addition to having worked in the design offices, also has decades of experience as a product manager.
You know very well how with you I feel in the best hands because your intelligence and experience gives me all the confidence I'm looking for, please consider my advices because in my field I have the same skills and experiences myself .
As you say "any point of view of ours ought to be based on the principle of being as careful as possible, avoiding any potential for mistakes or missteps".
Thank you again
Have a nice weekend
Sun, Dec 19, 1:01 PM
Kate Chang <email@example.com> to [Name Redacted]
SUBJECT: Ref: email exchange with Italian handbag factory
Hi [Name Redacted],
Thanks for your email and for your explanation, there’s no need to say sorry.
For collaborators to have misunderstandings is really normal.
Regarding your suggestions, at the present moment during this factory test process, we fully accept them. You should tell the factories to make the bigger size, and you can put me in CC in those communications. You can make it size 40, but in the future, 36 and 38 is really important for the actual sizing block to sell, because those will be the most heavily requested sizes in our territory. I thank you for sharing your suggestion to me, and I hope that you will continue to do so going forward. For us, any suggestion is a very precious asset.
As I wrote to you, from the moment I wake up in the morning, I am thinking about how I can avoid failure. Failure due to our own disorganization or errors that we should not be making must be avoided at all cost. In my more than 10 years of investment experience, I have learned that success, in many respects, is all in the details, and also what kind of person you are working with, not just talent or technical skill.
As a result of this, my character is more careful; and in the last few years in my career, I virtually haven’t had a failure in my investment career. I very much treasure the reputation I have garnered in my field, because that is my everything. This is also why I am very worried that one error, or avoidable mistake, would destroy all of this reputation I’ve worked so hard to build.
So I hope that you will see why in the course of cooperating with you, I have many of my insistences and even uncompromising positions on certain aspects, even where you may feel I am wrong, and I hope that you will give me your understanding when these confrontations may arise.
You are a very great designer, from the market research this has been fully proven without doubt. We believe that your success is only a matter of time.
Yet even under these circumstances, we should be even more careful, move even more cautiously to as much as possible eliminate any and all mistakes.
Your capability is the talent that you have had since the day that you were born, and your far reaching experience in the fashion industry. I don’t have any idea or clue about this. But my capability is that I know how to sell the pieces that you design, such that in the broadest scope possible, your brand can accumulate a huge sales volume and influence. The methods that we will use are different from those of other companies.
This is the knowledge that I have full confidence in.
At the same time, as a professional investor, I have a very strong ability to raise funds, and I know how to dialogue with potential investors, and bring them to very excitedly invest in the projects that I suggest to them. My more than a decade of experience has fully shown this.
I trust that you also see that the dozen or so factories who are paired with you, most of them are moving with enthusiasm to complete the tests.
This test, to be clear, we don’t pay for. Because every factory who wants to join the YMYX project, has to use their own resources and funds, to prove their ability, and if they can’t or won’t, then I ask them not to join.
But as a designer alone, to have the factory invest their own money to make samples in order to prove that they have the capability to you, I trust that you would also agree with me, this is impossible. Yet YMYX, we have achieved this, and we have more than 100 factories in the test process, each factory has invested quite a bit of money to open new custom molds for soles, create custom hardware for some of our partner brands, all of this they do just to try to win access to become part of YMYX.
All of this is the result of my capability.
My capability and your talent, if we combine them, I believe there's simply no reason that we wouldn’t succeed.
At this moment, now that we are nearing entering the market, I can already reveal even more information to you.
In reality, through these prior 3, and this most recent last round of successive market research, your brand has accumulated upwards of several hundreds or so looks, and through this gradual layering and increase of models, you have been able also to verify the market’s positive reaction toward your brand.
As a result, moreso than ever, we feel even more certain on our sales strategy and the order volume that will be generated for your brand. Through this market research process, we have also reached an understanding and confirmed several potential groups of investors for your brand; so that once we go to market and launch, they will put forth a maximum amount of $35 million US dollars, earmarked for your brand’s development and launch, that would be continuously released in tranches, in order to undergo production, marketing and sales operations. As soon as the market requires it, at anytime, the funds can be actualized as needed, and if there’s even further need, more funds will come.
In fact due to the positive performance of [Name Redacted] brand during these rounds of market research, and for many of our other partner designers as well who have scored positively in their own research, we are able to actually pick up from amongst a wider pool of interest, only the most suitable investors for each brand, because there has been such an interest after seeing the results that we therefore have the ability to be selective, and choose the most easy to communicate, cooperative ones. Investors, just like designers, can be emotional and hot-tempered, since they have money.
To have reached this step is a result of your effort, and also YMYX’s effort, too. This further proves that if we use an attitude of understanding, compromise, and acceptance to combine our mutual talents and efforts, the result will undoubtedly be positive.
Please understand, it is precisely because of this market research, the potential investors have already confirmed the market’s recognition toward your brand and are emboldened by that response to invest. The more that consumers respond positively, the more that they welcome and embrace your brand in the market research being conducted, the more money that will be invested.
This is also another reason why when we ask each designer to use 2D or 3D to do market research, the quality of their renders must be very good, because only this way will the images be very realistic in front of the consumers eyes, and we can obtain more accurate and concrete data so the designer can make adjustments.
Of course, as I have also explained before, the actual products produced from those 2D or 3D renders then also need to be very close, very faithful to the original rendered design, because otherwise, the products may not sell, and investors in that case, also would not support the brand. This is also why, when we select the factories in this test process, I need you to personally view them to ensure the closeness to the original render. Even in the future, I don’t recommend that you view the final prototypes only on video for this reason; of course, you can choose to do so, but in-person viewing would of course be even better.
The rendering is also important because we do not want to see a situation where actually, the designer has talent, but they cannot make good renders and they fail as a result. No matter what the industry, to succeed, the goal should never be “it’s good enough”, there’s only how to do it better and better, and strive for even more superior results. Only this way, and under these circumstances, will investors be willing to support you.
When we met in Milan with each designer, so many of them said to me, that as long as they had financial support, they could succeed; I believed this, but now I see this is not really the case.
Actually I feel very sad about this, and regretful. Because these designers did work hard, and they did register their brand. But that’s just life; it’s not possible for every single brand to achieve success, and win investors’ interest and support.
In other words, only for those designers who have indeed received positive response from the market research, will we find investors specifically for their brand to support the investment for every aspect the brand needs from production, sales and marketing. Otherwise, no matter how strong my capability is, if the designs are not good, I would not be able to find investors.
Previously, there were also those designers who also questioned me, with so many brands, and with each designing hundreds of models, how did YMYX possibly have all this money to invest?
I share with you the question posed to me by one such designer; he often appears on Vogue, is very talented, but in the market research for his brand, where he presented just some 80 looks, the results were lackluster at best. His response was indignant and angry, and you can see his questioning attacks in this exchange below (see below for text and attachment).
This once again, shows the fact that design and investment are two totally different competencies.
As designers, you are always worried that there is no money to invest.
As investors, we are always worried whether or not the designs are good, or have been welcomed by the market, and whether or not this designer, who is the investee, will have a stable and calm personality, good character and strong credibility.
Because for investors, to invest in someone who has no credibility or ethics, and who can't control their emotions, even if they are very talented, will always be a tragic story, it will cause a huge loss in the future.
This is why even though they are talented, we have proposed to many partner designers recently to cancel the contract.
I share with you further some of these emails I have exchanged with a few designers, to give you a better understanding of the kinds of berating and accusatory messages I receive; not only do I deal with these kinds of extremely emotional designers, there are even those who are sexually harassing me.
This designer, a footwear designer which I have mentioned to you previously, proclaims himself the “king” of shoes. He is indeed a very talented designer, we did a small scale research for his brand already, and we even introduced him to a shoe factory in Italy.
In fact we had already confirmed an investment consortium to invest in his brand around $3 million US dollars, to support the launching. I had every confidence that he would succeed, but in these years, he not only has sent me sexually harassnig emails, verbally attack me, and even went so far as to undergo secret communication with this shoe factory behind YMYX’s back, that violated business ethics. This factory shared all of the emails that I exchanged with them including the contract we signed with them, to this designer, behind YMYX’s back. Many times, I requested to cancel the contract, but he refused, and his behavior continued off and on for all these years.
Even so, I kept tolerating and enduring it, and I still hoped that this designer could admit the truth, and promise he would not do such things again, and I said that we could turn the page, we wouldn’t sue him and we would not have legal problems. But toward my goodwill gesture, his response was to demand a formal guarantee, and say that he would post 2,500 questions on Quora against me, that he would wage a “dangerous war” against me; he hasn’t stopped to use hard and soft tactics to harass me still.
Below, the emails exchanged between us (see attachment and text below).
Another designer in the project, failed twice in the market research. We decided to invest in him for a third round, and when he finally succeeded, he suddenly became incredibly arrogant, difficult to communicate while making all kinds of demands. We are very worried about a future with this kind of designer, so we have already suggested cancellation of the contract with him.
This is just one example, but there are many who have behaved in this way.
Yet there are other designers in the project, once they have failed in market research, they vent all of their emotions and anger, frustration, toward me as if it is my fault that their designs aren’t loved by the consumers.
What these designers seem not to understand is, if the market doesn’t recognize their design, how can YMYX produce their collection?
Because even if we produced it, it would still just sit as inventory.
And if the market research isn’t successful, what good does it do to vent on me, yell at me?
How does that help your goal?
In reality, now, we have a few dozen designers who are very talented and they have received the market’s recognition through this market research process. The results have been very encouraging, and for these designers too, just as for your brand, investors have confirmed a massive investment total earmarked for continuous investment as needed. This has given us, as I wrote above, the benefit of choice when it comes to potential investors for each brand, we can select the ones we want to work with. But if your market research fails, then no one will invest, because no investor would want to risk on a brand that is likely to produce inventory.
As a result, I reiterate that using 2D and 3D renders to conduct market research is incredibly important; it is the preamble to the revolution underway in the fashion industry now. I don’t believe that there will still be designers who test by making physical prototypes, testing everything, and then re-making prototypes, and testing again, in the future, because the ability to move with 2D and 3D renders to market test is going to become a firm determining factor in each brand’s viability or failure in the future.
In these years, each designer, no matter if it's due to the registration costs, or that they lost their livelihood or got depressed due to COVID-19, everyday I am receiving emails with accusations and attacks. However, all of this can’t crush me, because as a leader, for my team and investors, I must endure, and I can only keep enduring, and always ignore them. But in my heart, this certainly pains me. COVID -19 has tormented the world, and tormented YMYX the same; of course, it has tormented you and me as well.
But this is life and we can only use our extraordinary patience to wait for it to pass.
Most importantly, and what is lucky, is that we are doing better than before, and we have even more promise of a bright future. This is the result of each designer’s efforts, not just the effort of our team.
I know, [Name Redacted], in these years, you put forward a lot.
We are both the same, but no matter how much we give, it’s all for the success of the future.
I hope in the future we will proceed with mutual understanding, and mutually “add oil” for each other.
Only this way can we succeed.
Even though I have constantly received so many attacks, and smears, and so many social media defamation, today, I have not been defeated and am still standing. And I believe that I will never be defeated, the reason is because there are those designers like you and others, who have supported me along the way. Just like the weather, there’s stormy weather and also sunny days.
These sunny days have supported me through these years.
All companies in the world have suffered from COVID-19’s impact, and many have closed as a result, but we are still here. I can tell you very clearly that as soon as China opens up its borders, we will immediately enter the China market, and we will definitely succeed.
A lot of these emails that I have sent to you in copy and paste, if you are busy, or no matter the reason, if you don't want to read them you can throw them away. These are just the tip of the iceberg; and I share with you only a glimpse and spare you the rest, which is even more unbearable or unpleasant to look at.
At the end of the day, I am a person, not a god; I have emotions and pressure, I will shed tears and laugh heartily. I have my pain and happiness, I will take a hit, but I also have my support.
I do apologize that approaching Christmas, I have written you such a long letter. Because just as you said in your last email, I have known you personally for all these years; so now I also hope that you can know me personally, too, because we are partners for life.
Christmas is here, and I really hope that your whole family remains in good health and spirits, and I send to you and your loved ones each, my wishes for a very merry holiday season.
Thank you again for your understanding and your constant support and acceptance."
We sincerely hope that all of our partner designers, when they face new changes or challenges, will not resist or ignore these chances, but instead find ways to proactively and enthusiastically learn how to elevate their own skills in order to meet head-on the changes that will inevitably come. Only this way, will you avoid becoming a weak link in the fashion industry.
I also want to take a moment to thank the dedicated designers in the project who have never tired, given up or grown weary; in these 3 years, they have been patient, understanding and open-minded, challenging themselves to improve and rise above the rest.
We have had a lot of misunderstandings, some doubt and suspicion. It has been a difficult path which we have traversed, but now, we are even more secure than before. But now, for us at YMYX, the factory partners and our brand partners, with the combined force of each, we are convinced that we have a bright future ahead, and we will achieve the success that we yearn for.
In the course of this, we have had disappointments; many designers have failed in their market research, refused to improve or try harder to succeed, others did succeed in later attempts, and then became irrational or arrogant, but I do not think that these kinds of designers can succeed. Because a successful designer requires not only talent, but even more important is the personality, calm and cool demeanor, humility, and the high standards that these successful designers set for themselves; they are never satisfied with their work, they are always reaching to do better.
I often tell our partner designers that in Europe, you are facing French, and Italian, maybe Spanish designers, but in China, you will be facing the best designers from all across the world, including even from Japan, Korea, and even locally in China.
How you will stand out amongst all of these brands, and really break away from the pack, and win the competition, is not so easy to do.
It requires an attitude of humility, humility and more humility; any mistake that is caused by hubris or arrogance will bring irreparable failure.
In these years, YMYX and even myself, Kate, have run into a lot of attacks, smears and defamation online by anonymous attacks, and even dealt with a designer who worked behind the scenes with a factory we connected them to, and created an opaque relationship with the factory by bypassing YMYX’s knowledge. I also received threats from designers, too.
But all of this can only push YMYX to be even stronger, and to root out and eliminate the negative elements. We now know which brands will succeed and which ones will not.
I will not list out each grievance one by one, but there has indeed been a long road to walk to get to where we are today.
What heartens me is that most of the designer partners we have are full of enthusiasm, they are professional, and I trust that as we walk into this next phase together, we have what it takes to face together any problems that will still come our way with an accepting and understanding attitude, with compromise and open mindedness.
In this way, we can achieve unimaginable heights, and create success that was otherwise unattainable.
We must use this attitude to maintain our relationship, and create an incredibly tightly bound cooperation.
English is the official language of this letter.